Christmas Eve

The Christmas Dress

Since I’ve been smocking, people seem surprised to find out I make Danielle’s special occasion dresses. I like the compliments, but I always hear the same questions and comments:

“You must be a stay-at-home mom.”
Actually I’m not. I work full time.

“When do you ever find the time?”
I don’t usually watch TV and have almost totally given up all other hobbies and reading for pleasure in order to smock. I try to stitch after the kids go to bed until it’s time for me to go to bed. It was much easier to find time on the weekends when both kids used to take naps. I try to make the best use of my time and bring my smocking with me if I know I will have a long wait in the doctor’s office or sometimes bring my smocking to the office to work on while on my lunch break.

“I could never do that. I don’t have the time/patience/talent.”
Where there’s a will… I don’t think of myself as a patient person just determined and tenacious.

“How long does it take you to make that?”
It’s hard to answer that question because I don’t keep an accurate count of man-hours spent. It depends on the detail of the dress. Some dresses I can get out in a few weeks and some takes me months. It depends on what else is going on in my life, which is usually a lot. I can say, bishop dresses don’t take as long because there are fewer pieces to assemble. Yoke dresses usually take less time to smock because you don’t have to smock the front and back (this of course depends on the detail and whether you are just smocking an insert or the full front bodice), but they take more time to assemble at the end. Picture smocking takes the longer than geometric smocked patterns because your smocked rows have to be perfectly stacked in order to create the picture.

“You should sell your work and do this full time.”
Thanks, but no. I could never make my salary doing this full time. A smocked dress in a specialty store costs between $45 and $85. If I spend 50+ hours making a dress, no one would be willing to pay me minimum wage in the time it took to make let alone the costs of materials.

“Will you make me a dress for my daughter/granddaughter?”
I said yes once and regret it. I have the dress cut, but because I’m wrapped up in all of Danielly’s Easter/Mother’s Day/Christmas/ birthday dresses, I don’t have the time to pleat or smock it. I hate breaking a promise, but I really can’t see how I will be able to finish the promised dress. Every dress I make for someone else is one dress less Danielle will have. People just don’t realize the time it takes to do handiwork. It’s not something that you can just whip up in a weekend.

One friend at work comments: “Just make it easy on yourself and buy her a smocked dress.”
I have some garment labels I bought that read “Made With Love by Mommy” and that is reason enough that I do what I do. When it is all said and done I have a finished dress I’m proud of and can account for my time. It’s better than spending hours in front of TV.

Usually I don’t keep track on “how long it takes”. I stitch until I’m interrupted (which is frequently) or get tired (which is also frequently), so there are a lot of starts and stops to keep track of. With Danielly’s Christmas dress, I kept a journal of the time spent and took pictures of the work in progress.

I took a week off from work back in November to have uninterrupted time to selfishly stitch while the kids were in school or at daycare and the husband was at work. Here’s how the process went.

The smocking pattern of the snowmen bishop came from Sew Beautiful, Issue 96 and was designed by Allison Burris.

I searched high and low at all the fabric stores for the perfect color blue to make this bishop. I can’t tell you how long that took or how much time I spent searching for the perfect lace and little snowflake buttons.

The Sew Beautiful issue recommended Chery Williams’ bishop pattern, but not all bishops are created equal. It took me about two hours of searching my back issues of Australian Smocking and Embroidery (AS&E) to decide on which bishop pattern I would use. I took a plain piece of paper and traced where the armhole would be for six different bishops from old AS&E issues along with Chery Williams’ pattern, Children’s Corner pattern, and Ellen McCarn’s bishop patterns. I finally decided to go with Ellen McCarn’s bishop pattern. Looking back I probably should have gone with the less full Chery Williams’ version since the material I used was a heavier weight of cotton.

A warning on the Chery Williams’ bishop pattern: If you want the traditional 4-inch hemline, lengthen the pattern because they run short. A size 4 Chery Williams bishop is 22-1/2 inches long, the same size Ellen McCarn’s bishop is 28 inches long.

My Sew Beautiful inspiration picture had a short-sleeved version. I hate to see a little girl shiver in the winter because her mother put her in a short sleeved Christmas dress. I went with the long-sleeved version. It’s now two days before Christmas and the weather here has been in the mid to upper 60’s. In retrospect, I could have made cute little capped sleeves instead and Danielle would have been fine.

Day 1 of my smocking vacation (7-1/2 hours of work):


I traced a size 4 bishop pattern on butcher’s paper and cut it out. I pinned the pattern pieces to my fabric and cut the dress out. I assembled all 5 pieces (to include trimming my seam allowance and zig-zagging the seams) before I realized one of the sleeves had a hole right in the middle of it. The fabric had an imperfection that I hadn’t noticed when I had laid the butcher’s paper over it. I ran my finger over it and the hole started to get bigger. It wasn’t just a slight imperfection. I had to carefully remove the sleeve, cut another one out and replace it. Replacing it was harder because I had less of a seam allowance to work with since I had already trimmed. I then had to pleat the holding rows. The fabric was thicker than I had expected and ended up breaking or bending needles midway though the pleating process. Pleater needles average a $1 a piece, and I ruined 6 in pleating this dress. I’ve read articles on how to replace a broken needle without having to start the pleating process all over again, but I can’t seem to make it work right. I wound up just removing the holding rows and starting over. It was finally successful after several attempts. I used quilting pins to find my center, used Fray-check on the top to prevent fraying, and called it a day.

Day 2 of my smocking vacation (8 hours worth of work):


I was only able to complete the top 4 rows of smocking.

Day 3 of my smocking vacation (6 hours worth of work):


Completed the bottom three rows of smocking and started on the scoops on the bottom.

Day 4 of my smocking vacation (10 hours):


3 hours were spent finishing the scoops on the bottom. 7 hours were making the bullion snow family.

Day 5 of my smocking vacation (7 hours):


I filled in the “snow” and did back smocking. You would think the snow would be the easy part, but it wasn’t. There wasn’t a pattern to follow, just random stitches. I’m a visual person and don’t do well conceptualizing. I used pinheads to figure out what the finished smocked “snow” would look like.


Although it wasn’t needed to hold the fabric in place, I back smocked the top row as a mirror image of my front smocking. I have found by using the smocked cable on the back as a guide on my sewing machine, I make perfect necklines every time. The middle two rows of back smocking are needed to hold the fabric in place when the holding threads are removed.

Blocking:


I know some smockers who do not block their work. I always do after I discovered not doing so on a bishop dress could cause an undesired turtleneck effect. I block after I have smocked. I pin the dress down on a small cork bulletin board using a bishop neckline guide, spritz it down with water and leave overnight. (Approximately 1 hour of time spent.)

I spent another 10 hours assembling the dress – placket insertion, neckline binding, sewing lace on the sleeves, inserting elastic in the sleeves, sewing seams, hemming dress, hand stitching button loops, and placing buttons. Putting in a placket is always the most difficult part for me no matter how many times I’ve done it.

The finished product:



All totaled, 50-1/2 hours worth of work. Is it worth it? To hear my darling daughter exclaim, “Mom, it’s gorgeous!” Priceless. That’s something money can’t buy in a store.

I made Aden a navy blue vest to wear on Christmas Eve, too. His has snowmen buttons that match the snowmen smocked on Danielly’s dress.

Preparing for the Man in the Big Red Suit

We helped the kids do their Christmas lists to Santa. I gave the kids a sheet of paper and told them to glue pictures of what they wanted Santa to bring them. I had pre-cut pictures of items I already knew they wanted and have already been bought. These were in a pile to pick from. When they were gone, I told them they could choose from sales flyers or toy magazines we sometimes get. The only rule was whatever they chose had to fit on one page. Aden went to town cutting almost everything he saw and had a huge pile of pictures. He had a hard time choosing what he wanted to glue on his page. We gently explained he wasn't going to get everything, so he had to choose for Santa what he wanted the most. "But I really, really want everything", he wailed. Eventually he glued some pictures on his one page and then the other pictures on paper strips for "next year". However when it came time to put their "lists" in an envelope to mail he insisted on sending Santa all his lists.

Okay, I'll admit. This year's list got a little out of hand for Aden compared to last year, but last year the kids weren't exposed to commercials on TV. We were still watching the commercial-free kid channel Noggin. This year we graduated to Nickelodeon and have been inundated with commercials hawking "stuff". Scott made a very good rule. The kids are not allowed to yell, "I want that!" while the TV is on. If they do, the TV goes off. If they can remember the thing they wanted after the TV has been off for a while, then it must be something they truly wanted. That's basically how Santa knew what to buy.

Aden's school hosted a Holiday Market for the kids to buy Christmas presents for family members. Presents ranged from 50 cents to $11. The school sent home an envelope with a checklist on who the items were for (Mom Dad, sister, etc.) and what the maximum price the child could spend on each person. Aden used his own money (plus a few dollars we slipped in). He paid the money to Scott who wrote a check to the school. Aden picked out three gifts for his immediate family. I'm glad the school offered this. Aden felt so proud and we are too. He's learning to make wise money choices at a young age that I hope will carry him through later in life.

Danielle's daycare had their Christmas program at school. They were all so cute.



Once a week a music teacher comes to her daycare. After the show, the music teacher introduced herself to me and had nothing but praise to say on how well Danielle was doing. She was glad to meet us because even last year when Danielle was two, she had done so well. It will be interesting to see what musical talent may blossom.

Mary in a Martha World

Last Saturday, I had rehearsal with another flautist from church. I thought we were rehearsing a duet for Christmas Eve, but at the end of practice I found out we were rehearsing for the next day’s morning service! We had another rehearsal at 7:15 Sunday morning and then performed the prelude for both services. As soon as the prelude for the second service was over, we bolted for the door to go to Rock Hill to see Scott’s family including Aunt Janet and Uncle Philip, who were in town for the weekend.

Monday night, I went to the annual cookie exchange party hosted by one of my church members. Although my sister and I bake enough of a variety of cookies between Thanksgiving and Christmas to share with each other, I still like going to this annual event to share laughter and fellowship more so than the cookies.

Then on Tuesday, Scott and I left work early to take Danielle to dance class. Usually her daycare provides the transportation to dance, but this Tuesday was the open house class, when parents are invited to a practice. We loved watching our adorable ballerina.



Thursday, I received a call at 11:00 AM from one of my sister’s co-workers to meet her at the ER. Lana had become woozy and nauseous at work, and was unable to communicate with a caller on the phone. When I arrived she was much better, and the staff had ruled out a heart attack and stroke. Although her CT scan was normal, the doctor on staff still thinks she had a mild TIA (trans-ischemic attack). She was prescribed aspirin and is to follow-up with her doctor to check her carotid artery.

Friday, I accompanied Aden on a school field trip to see a ballet performance of Jack Frost especially designed for children. As was explained to the children beforehand, most ballets are wordless, but for this performance the dancers pantomimed to the edited soundtrack of the Rankin/Bass holiday special by the same name. (Recently shown on ABC Family channel.) I love Rankin/Bass specials and I think one of the best things of having kids of my own is watching these specials all over again without feeling guilty that I haven’t outgrown them. Aden was enthralled with the show (good thing since Scott and I have a love for live performing arts). When they announced The Columbia City Ballet Company would be performing The Nutcracker, Aden got excited and wanted us to take him. (Good boy.) I called Scott at work and asked him to book tickets for the matinee performance for Saturday.

We had the kids’ picture taken with Santa Friday after work. We skipped the Santa at the mall thing last year because things got too busy (imagine that!). This year I’m on top of it. Christmas shopping is done for our immediate household. The family newsletter is almost done and will be going out soon. Danielle’s Christmas dress is smocked and just needs to be assembled and Aden’s vest is cut and waits only to be assembled as well. (More on the dress construction in a later blog entry.) By gosh, I wasn’t going to miss going to the mall and seeing Santa this year. It was the smoothest experience seeing Santa I’ve had. The line wasn’t that long and moved very quickly. I was pleasantly surprised.



(The dress Danielle is wearing in the picture was given to her; however, Danielle tells people I made it.)

Today, I went to my women’s Prayer & Share meeting. Aden and Danielle’s “fairy” godmother hosts a prayer meeting periodically (at least once a quarter). Sometimes I can’t go because I occasionally work overtime on Saturdays, but I try to make the December event since we have Christmas ornament exchange. We reflected on the Mary and Martha biblical story and discussed how we usually wind up being Marthas trying to make everything perfect for the holidays, when we should be quiet, reflective, and listening to Jesus in our hearts like Mary this time of the year. I think I’ve found a good balance between being a Martha and a Mary this year. The traditions and things that have been most important to me in the past have gotten done (smocking a dress, seeing Santa, cookie exchange, newsletter, and Prayer & Share). The things that are not as important (such as having an absolutely spotless house and yard) have not.

We took the children to see The Nutcracker. Danielle was enthralled with the dancers. In a loud whisper I heard her say, “Wow! How is she doing that!” This is the first full-length performance that the kids have been to. We weren’t sure how this would go, so we bought cheap seats in the upper balcony. Overall, they behaved well. We need a little more practice about theater etiquette, but that will come with time. In February there will be a ballet of Maurice Sendak’s Where the Wild Things Are. It should be lots of fun. We’ve promised the kids we’ll take them. At the end of this afternoon’s performance, the dancers walked around the lobby to greet the patrons. Danielle got to feel pointe shoes (much different than her slippers) and felt what makes the tutus stand up (wire hoops). She talked to one of the dancers who encouraged her if she continued to take ballet, she could dance on her toes too one day.

Tired of Turkey?

So what do you do with all that leftover Thanksgiving turkey after you've had all the turkey sandwiches you can stand?

I fixed a turkey and rice casserole with shredded dark meat and cream of chicken soup.

Scott made a turkey ziti casserole with left over turkey, fully cooked pasta, Prego red pepper and garlic sauce, and 1 cup of mozzarella cheese mixed in. After it was baked, another cup of cheese was sprinkled on top and melted. I usually like my ziti with ground beef or sausauge, but the turkey substitute was pretty good.

The kids didn't want anything to do with either concoction. Oh well, both were delicious anyway. More for us.